So, now that you've got a dog, or a new puppy, uppermost in your mind is housebreaking. Just how will you get the dog "to go" when and where you want him to go?
The following information will assist you in determining when the dog has to go. If you can anticipate his needs, you will be able to teach him where to urinate and defecate, thereby minimizing household soiling. A sensible feeding and walking schedule, supervision when you're home and confinement when you're not will have most dogs reliably housebroken within 12 weeks.
The New Dog
A dog that is new to your home will need time to adjust. This can take up to thee months, depending on the dog's age and level of confidence. Even if the dog's previous owner stated that the dog was housebroken, he will need supervision and guidance. Each dog is an individual and will respond differently to having new caretakers, living in a new environment (indoors and out), and getting used to a new routine. Changes in diet and exercise are contributing factors, along with excitability and anxiety.
The Same Old Dog
The dog that was never fully housebroken (he has accidents daily, weekly or monthly) should be treated like a brand new unhousebroken dog. Remember, old habits can be difficult to break. The dog may become confused by or resistant to a change in his normal way of doing things. Stick to the routine for a minimum of 12 weeks... Even if things are looking good, keep up the schedule and the intensive supervision.
Getting Started
Whenever a dog eats or drinks, he sets in motion a digestive sequence that often ends up with elimination. This is the gastro-colic reflex. What this means is that shortly after finishing his meal, the dog will have to go to the bathroom. This can be anywhere within a 30-minute period. So, when he's done eating, don't let him roam all over the house. Don't let him/her out of your sight. Have a leash ready. Watch for signs that the dog has to relieve itself. Intense sniffing, pacing back and forth and/ or circling are signs that he "has to go." Young males squat when they urinate. Adult intact males will lift a hind leg on a vertical surface (doorway, table leg or corner of a dresser or sofa) to urinate.
If you feed the dog at the same time each day, you will be able to see a clear pattern of behavior develop. The number of meals per day that you feed the dog will figure into the total number of times you can expect to have to take him/ her out on a toilet mission. Feeding a highly digestible, premium formula food (i.e., Iams Small Breed Eukanuba Puppy, Eukanuba Premium Performance Adult, Iams, Science Diet, ProPac, Purina One) greatly assists in getting and keeping the dog on a schedule.
Many Dogs will need to urinate after waking from a long nap or an overnight sleep. Once again, supervision is the key. If you don't see the dog wake up, you may miss him as it heads off to relieve himself. Always have a leash handy so you can hurry the dog outdoors.
Vigorous play can stimulate a dog to urinate as well. A young dog may have trouble controlling the urge. He may squat suddenly, urinate and then resume play. Watch carefully-- he may give little or no warning.
Some dogs use urine and feces to mark territorial boundaries. Even a young pupy may feel compelled to establish and protect his territory. This type of soiling (not related to the gastro-colic reflex) can happen during the night if you sleep in seperate quarters from the dog or when you leave the dog alone in the house. Dogs are quite social. Many, especially surrendered or abandoned shelter dogs, become stressed and anxious when seperated from their new families. Unneutered males sometimes will lift their leg indoors, not because they have to go, but rather in the spirit of posting a no trespassing sign.
Gotcha!
If you catch the dog in the act, a deep firm "NO!" is all that is needed to communicate your displeasure. If you succeeded in interrupting the act, get the dog outdoors quickly and clean up when you get back. Hitting the dog or rubbing his face in his waste is not only unnecessary, but offensive and damaging. Com'on Dogs Love stinky smelly things...Haven't you ever watched a freshly bathed dog, go outdoors, and find some offensive matter, or try to steer you to some petrofied road kill when on his walk to rub, and roll all over himself, and come back in pleased as punch, and stinking to high heaven, with a huge smile on his face?
Intimidation tactics work against relationships based on mutual trust and respect, and lead to a dog who cowers, is confused, and is afraid of his family. Communicate dissatisfaction verbally. Supervision is essential. The dog is always learning, even when you are not actively teaching. A dog that is improperly supervised (you find more accidents than you see) may become confused as to whether or not he may eliminate indoors. Sometimes he gets yelled at and sometimes he doesn't. A dog that is carefully monitored understands very quickly what he may and may not do and usually becomes reliable within a month or so.
If you missed the event, all you can do is vow to be more diligent in your supervision and clean up the mess! Unless you catch the dog in the act, the correction is useless. After-the-fact punishment does not teach. Upon finding an accident, many a dog owner will grab the dog, drag him back to the scene of the crime, point at the mess or even worse push the dog's face in it and yell. We all know that the dog will get the last laugh, when it comes indoors stinking like feces, or urine on it's face, jump in your lap, and kiss you. *Laughs* and the dog will cower, lower his eyes, lay back his ears, yelp and/or belly up while being repremanded. The acknowedgment of the misdeed? It is not. The dog is reacting to the here and now. The postures struck are in response to the loud, deep voice and the affront of being grabbed and shoved. For all the dog knows, you're yelling and pointing because you wanted him to soil the living room carpet instead of the hall carpet. Disipline after-the-fact lets the dog know something is wrong, but not WHAT is wrong. Only catching the dog in the act will let him know what is wrong and how to make it right! Supervision is everything. When you are home, the dog should be in sight. When you cannot supervise him, he should be crated (information follows) or confined to a small, dog-proofed area.
Clean Up!
Clean up all accidents with a commercial odor neutralizer. We like Odorban from Sam's club or KOE (Kennel Odor Eliminator) from Revival. This type of product, which is readily available in pet supply stores and catlogs, breaks down (using enzymes or bacteria) the organic matter that causes the odor. Cleaning up with ammonial or pine-based cleaners will not neutralize the odor. If there is any residual odor left after cleaning, chances are good that the dog will return to the spot again. Be sure to follow the directions for use precisely. If used incorrectly, the product will not work.
Getting Out
Keep in mind that you are taking the dog out on a toilet trip. You are not taking him out to play. If you have to wait for an elevator or walk down a long corridor or path, keep the dog's attention riveted on you with a favorite toy, or by talking to the dog...Do not use "baby-talk" as it seems to give the cocker a bigger urge to let go, and end up urinating right in front of you or worse on you. We also suggest if taking the young puppy from the crate after a long overnight sleep, to carry him to the outdoor area, until he learns where he is to go, and also telling them "No Peeing" or "Wait" until placed in the potty area. Don't let the dog stop and sniff until you've hit the yard. Move the dog briskly to the spot you have selected (curb by fire hydrant, grass area, ect.) Let him sniff around, but do not leave the area. Encourage the dog verbally (We usually say the "Go Potty" phrase) as you move back and forth across the area. Give him no more than 10 minutes to get the job done. Don't walk on for blocks and blocks. You're not on tour. Your dog's bathroom should be close to home. (And remember to take your "pick up baggies" with you each time for fecal removal, it keeps your yard clean, and or the apartment manager happier about allowing you to have a dog.) Greatly praise the dog as he relieves himself. DO make a HUGE deal out of it! Dogs love to please their family, so the bigger, happier, and pleasingly you react to positively reinforce, and make of his efforts the quicker he will respond each time. We also always give a treat (dog biscut) upon return into the house, and they learn quickly that if they go out and get their business done quickly they get to come in and get their treat sooner, it sure helps in our IOWA winters, as it is usually heavy snow, and COLD! Now... go for your walk or go back inside to play. The reward for going quickly is getting to play or go on an adventurous walk afterward!
If the dog does not go, return home and crate or tether him. Do not let him roam out of our sight -- doing so will simply encourage accidents. Try taking the dog out again in a half hour or so. You'll know when he goes. If it happens indoors, correct him. If it happens outdoors, lavishly praise him so he'll know that what he did was GOOD!!
Sample Feeding and Walking Schedules
Please note: These times are approximate to show the regularity in the schedule, please use times that fit into your scheduling best, as some people get up earlier in the mornings, and go to bed earlier. The point is to have set times for feeding and elimination times. A puppy/ dog allowed to eat free choice or nibble is a definate NO NO! he has food always moving through it's system, therefore having to eliminate on an almost constant basis. We feel you should ALWAYS provide fresh water to your pet.
3- to 6- Month Old Puppies
07:00 A.M. Good Morning! Walk or bring to paper immediately
08:00 A.M. Breakfast routine: Feed, give water, walk or bring to paper
12:30 P.M. Lunchtime routine: Feed, give water, walk or bring to paper
05:30 P.M. Dinner routine: Feed, give water walk or bring to paper
08:00 P.M. Evenings: Give water, walk or bring to paper
11:00 P.M. Good night! Walk or bring to paper and then kennel for the night
7- to 10- Months Old Adolescents
07:00 A.M. Good Morning! Walk or bring to paper immediately
08:00 A.M. Breakfast routine: Feed, give water, walk or bring to paper
12:30 P.M. Afternoons: Give water, walk or bring to paper
06:30 P.M. Dinner routine: Feed, give water, walk or bring to paper
11:00 P.M. Good night! walk or bring to paper and then kennel for the night
11-month-Old to Adult
07:00 A.M. Good Morning! Walk or bring to paper, give water and dog biscuit
04:30 P.M. Afternoons: Walk or bring to paper, give water and dog bisciut
06:30P.M. Dinner routine: Feed, give water, walk or bring to paper
11:00P.M. Good Night! Walk or bring to paper and then kennel for the night
Paper Training
If you're think about paper training consider the following:
1) Teaching a dog to eliminate indoors can cause confusion when he is away form home. Unless the dog is carefully trained to respond to a particular set of cues, he may end up having many indoor accidents. Dogs that are not trustworthy are not well recieved as guests. As a result, they rarely get to come along and are instead left behind.
2) Unneutered male dogs are particularly difficult to paper train because they want to lift their leg and squirt small bursts of urine several places rather than in one spot. Unneutered males must be trained to use only one indoor scent post.
3) Paper-trained dogs still need at least two or three walks a day. All dogs need fresh air and exercise. They also need to be fully socialized. Most dogs enjoy the company of other dogs and should be given the opportunity to be with them. A paper- trained dog should not be under house arrest just because his toilet area is indoors.
A dog that will be permanently paper trained should be taken to the papers on a leash just as if he were going outdoors. As you approach the papers and during elimination, use a particular phrase like "Go Potty." Don't put the papers down in the same spot everyday. Instead move them around the room or house. If the papers stay in one place, the dog will become location (site) trained. He will think his bathroom is next to the broom closet rather than the spot that's covered with newspaper! Proper cuing is essential. It helps the dog understand. When you present paper to him amd give him the word, you want him to go to the bathroom.
Do not leave the papers down all day long. The only difference between paper training and house breaking is that the dog is taken to the paper and not to outdoors. A housebroken dog controls himself until he gets to the curb; a paper trained dog should also control himself until he gets the opportunity to visit the papers. If you know you are going to be away for an extended period of time(longer than the dog can reasonably control himself), then and only then put papers down before you leave.
When you leave papers down all day long and let the dog visit them at will he does not develop control. A dog that is able to relieve himself whenever he feels a little full is like a dependant little baby in diapers.
Yes, it is certainly more convienient to let the dog roam and visit the papers whenever nature calls, but the arrangement is usually short lived. At first, the dog may "just miss" the papers. Sooner or later, he will begin just using the general vicinity of the papers. If the dog uses the papers and you don't praise him, they will not hold any significance. They will begin to lose their meaning. If you don't see the dog use the floor, you will miss an opportunity
to teach him to control himself until he is presented with the papers.
The dog thinks,
" If nothing happens for using the papers and nothing bad happens for not using them. than why bother to deal with this paper stuff at all?"
Additionally, a dog who visits the papers at will is a dog who is learning to eliminate in privacy. He can become quite disturbed when people are present and therefore become unable to relax sufficiently to relieve himself. It becomes more complicated when you go outdoors. Unless you are willing t let the dog run off into the bush, he will not go.
Paper training is not a short cut or a convenience. If you want each and every act, elimination on the paper and only the paper, time and effort must be invested. The same amount of time and supervision that goes into housebreaking also goes into paper training. The only difference is that instead of putting on the leash and going outdoors to a specific spot the dog is lead to an indoor spot covered with paper. A paper trained dog still needs to be carefully supervised and confined when he can not be monitored.
How Crating Makes Good Use of Dog's Instincts
Many people associate kennel crates with imprisonment and punishment. They don't use them as a personal den or safe haven the way a dog does. Crates minimize the stress and activity that is associated with and induced by being left alone and having to deal with a large piece of territory. A crated dog can't pace back and forth or dart from window to door to window. He can't work himself up into a frenzy that also may include chewing and ransacking. These behaviors play a role in losing control of the bladder and bowel.
Dogs most always actively avoid soiling their quarters. It is just as distasteful for a dog to stay in close proximity with his waste as it is for you. This is the motivating force behind the use of a crate as a housebreaking tool. It is not cruel or inhumane. If a crate is introduced and used properly, it offers a natural way to housebreak a dog in four to six weeks.
Our puppies are crate trained early on, and normally are pretty comfortable in their crates by 8 weeks of age.
The size of the crate is very important. Sometimes there is a very thin line that separates "just enough room" from " too much room." Most dogs enjoy tight spaces with little head room (Does your dog curl up under a coffee table, between the sofa and the wall, behind your recliner, or under a desk?) However, some dogs do need room to sprawl. Take notice of how your dog uses space when he is let loose in a room. You may need to experiemnt a bit. If the dog soils the crate daily, chances are it is too big. If the dog can curl up in one corner and soil the other corner definitely it is too big. Do not put any absorbant bedding in the crate until you are sure our dog can cotrol himself and keep it clean and dry. If the dog continues to soil it, make sure that you are adhering to the correct schedule and the dog has been fully exercised before being crated. Do not be late in getting the dog out. A dog that is forced to soil his crate is a very unhappy dog.
Introduce the dog to the crate slowly. Feed him in it, put his toys in it, and hide goodies inside it. It should be fun to go inside. Put an irresistible chew toy inside, close the door and stay right nearby. Or pass little bits of a wonderful (not dull ordinary stuff) food inside. Talk up a storm, tell jokes, laugh and the let the dog out with a big "HOORAY!" Increase the length of time he is in the crate in small increments. Distance yourself, too. Sit across the room, and then sit in the next room. If he begins to whine, a sharply spoken "QUIET!" is in order. If he quiets, wait a moment or so then let him out. As long as he complains, he stays. Don't reward a tantrum with freedom. If you've introduced the crate properly and taken the time to make it fun, the dog will be complaining not becaue he doesn't like his accomodations, but instead because he can't be with you when he wants to be. You will also find the puppy/ dog go to his crate on his own, if the door is left open.
Lastly, some dogs do not accept being crated. For whatever reason, they become extremely anxious if confined. Some even make extraodinary efforts to escape. Signs of stress include incessant barking. shaking trembling, extreme salivation and lathering. Attempts to escape can lead not only to sores on paws, the nose and the forehead, but to bloody paws, split nails, bent cage bars and cages moved out of place. in most instances, the cage will be soiled repeatedly. If the dog becomes hysterical, do not force the issue. Some dogs just can't be trained using crates. This is especially true with shelter dogs that were not crate trained as puppies.
Tethering...
How to Keep the Dog with you Without Losing Control
Upon first inspection, you may conclude that unless you can give the dog your undivided attention, he's going to spend a lot of time in his crate or confinement area. This is not so. Tethering can replace crating as long as the tether (leash) is short enough to restrict the dog's movement in the same way that the crate does. If the leash is too long, the dog will be able to eliminate on one side and comfortably move away from the mess without you noticing. Use a buckle collar to attach the leash to the dog. A choke or slip collar will tighten up if the dog pulls at the end of the leash, and he probably will in the beginning.
With he dog on a leash you can tether (tie) the dog to you (leash tied to belt). It is very important not to isolate the dog from family. Dogs are pack animals who thrive in social situations.
Tethering must be supervised. Never leave the dog tied to an object and leave the room. The dog could become tangled, and then panic and hurt himself.
Tether the dog and help him settle down by giving him something that will keep him busy such as a chewy, or a toy that can't roll out of his reach. If the dog begins to tug or whine incessantly, check your watch. It may be getting close to walk time. If so, get the dog out quickly. If not, correct the dog wit ha firm "NO!" and redirect him to the chew toy or squeaky. Don't release him for nagging.
Now you can keep an eye on the dog no matter where you are in the house. Tethering also prevents the dog from slipping out of the room unnoticed while you're reading a dog training book, watching television or talking on the phone. Remember, you can only correct the dog if you see the misbehavior.
...But I Go to Work!
For those of you who work full time or have the type of day in which you are gone for extended periods of time (six to ten hours), the process schedules are not workable unless you have access to a reliable dog walker. Someone should be there when you can't be. If you are unable to arrange for this type of care, housebreaking or paper training must be postponed until the dog is old enough to control himself for the length of time you will be gone. This can be anywgere from 7-10 months of age. The basic rule is one hour of control for each month of age. So, a 5- month- old dog can be expected to be able to control himself comfortably for five hours in a confined space.
What to Do Until the Dog is Old Enough
Confine the dog to an area large enough for him to divide and maintain. It is strongly recommended that you use an oversized kennel crate or an ex-pen with a pan. This saves floors, and prevents chewing of flooring and woodwork. In addition, there will be no residual odor lingering in the flooring. If you must, a small room, hallway or alcove, cover the floor with plastic drop cloth or large garbage bags and then a thick layer of newspaper. The dog will use one corner to sleep and play and the far corner as a bathroom.
Once you see how the dog uses the area, you can put down a blanket or rug in the sleeping section and place shredded newspaper on top of the layers of paper in the bathroom section. Shreded newspaper is more absorbent and will keep the dog clean. Give the dog a good-sized target, he may need to use the area more than once.
When the dog has reached the age at which he is able to control himself for the duration of time that you will be gone, switch to the appropriate feeding and walking schedule, and reduce the size of the crate or confinement area. The lack of bathroom space will motivate the dog to control himself. If he soils the area, he will be unable to move away from it. It won't take very long for him to realize that it is more comfortable to hold it in than let it out! As long as you are fair with the length of time in confinement, he will be fine.
All newspaper gets picked up. If you're planning to permanently paper train, the paper will retain it's meaning. Keep in mind that when the dog was in divided space, he was going to the bathroom whenever he wanted. When you switch to the schedule routine, the dog will be compelled to control himself until walk time. Start conservatively. Use a weekend to introduce the dog into the new smaller crate or confinement area. Don't push your dog to extremes. All dogs should have a very minimum of three opportunities a day to go to the bathroom and have to wait no more than 8-10 hours between walks.
The dog should be throughly exercised before being crated. A dog that has had a good night's rest is full of energy in the morning. Give him the opportunity to blow off as much steam as possible before confining him for an extended period of time. Play fetch or find it, or teach the dog to jog or cycle along with you. Find some doggy neighbors whom he can play with in the park or just take a brisk walk through the neighborhood. An exhausted dog kennels best.
Base information provided by:
ASPCA Companion Animal Services
424 East 92nd Street, New York, NY 10128-6804
(212) 876-7700, ext. 4421
Copyright Shandilyn Cockers 2001. All rights reserved.
Permission to print for personal use is granted.
